frog fight

For the first time in months, I pulled shots, steamed milk, and competed in healthy competition against real latte artists. And I did not fail! Hosted in an out of the way cafe called Le Bal in the 9th arr. near Place de Clichy, this trendy gathering of coffee-minded individuals was the place to be. For five euros, you got to participate in a coffee tasting, watch the latte art competition, and get a free locally brewed beer.

Other baristas from the main cafes were present with their friends and cafe regulars. The mood was energetic, as if we all knew about a secret that we were hiding from the rest of the city. The television crew that was present aparently wanted to give that secret away. In Paris, as a coffee lover, it is easy to feel apart in the minority. However, it is becoming clear through the overwhelming popularity of places like Le Bal, Coutume, and Kooka Boora, that Parisians are seeking a coffeehouse experience that includes excellent coffee.

With the underground barista movement flourishing through organizations like frog fight, good coffee is moving to Paris. One cafe at a time.

Taste the moment with pictures from a photographer that was there.

coutume cafe - 47 rue de babylone, 7th arr.

Located just south of Blvd. St. Germaine and just east of Invalides on a typical small and overcrowded Parisian street, Coutume provides a nice escape from the traditional french cafe. The atmosphere is open and the design of the space has that purposefully worn look to it. With turn-of-the-century style architecture and molding, unfinished drywall, and a giant cold brew contraption, it feels as if you may have stumbled into a chemistry lab on accident.

Alas, you are in the right place to have a fantastic cup of coffee. I highly recommend their drip coffee. They always have a huge selection, and Nick or Kevin, the only two baristas, would be more than happy to help you pick one out to your fancy. Once, Kevin even brewed me a cup of a Kenyan coffee that had recently helped a young Aussie win the worldwide Aeropress championship this year in Milan. The australian just happened to stop by on his way through town, left some of the coffee with Kevin, who then shared it with me. The coffee was deligtfully flavorful, as it always is, and I got a story to take along with me. This being said, the baristas are uber passionate and always eager to have a conversation about coffee. The servers are also unusually attentive, and I have had nothing less than excellent service here.

While I am in love with their drip coffee, I always order a macchiato while I am here too. It comes in a skinny tall glass, which is unusual for macchiatos but very elegant and very delicious. The milk is always steamed to sweetness, and there is always fabulous latte art on top. Not to mention they have the new Strada machine by La Marzocco, which is an engineering feat. Each group head has its own boiler, so that the barista can be sure that each shot of espresso is pulled at the right temperature, without disrupting other shots being pulled at the same time. Perfection.

Their food is also quite good. I often order the petit dejuner that comes with mini-pastries, a coffee of your choice, and a big glass of fresh squeezed juice. Other people I know have had their banana bread, and enjoyed it. Their menu always looks tasty, and they have chefs on staff to create new dishes each week. Unfortunately for me, it is not the type of food I can afford on a regular basis, but delicious nonetheless.

One of the best things about their cafe is that they roast their own coffee in the back of the shop. If you dip back there, you can watch the roaster going, see the giant bags of beans, and get a sense for the amount of work that goes into each perfectly roasted cup. Coffee is number one priority here. Every saturday morning they have cupping sessions, where you can try different flavor profiles from around the world, meet and greet other coffee enthusiasts, and learn something new.

Tinkering and playing with syphons, fancy expresso machines, and cold brew contraptions, Coutume's baristas have succeeded in mastering the chemistry of serving a perfectly roasted, balanced cup of coffee. Coutume is a coffee lover's haven within the bleak Parisian coffee world.

photos courtesy of Dave Bloom       

Kooka Boora Cafe - 62 Rue des Martyrs, 9th arr.

Rating: 7.5 / 10

Kooka Boora is known for their coffee. Situated just south of the Blvd Place de Clichy madness, it is in the heart of the 9th arrondissement's bobo district, also known as Bourgeois Bohemian. And the bobos flock to KooBoo! 

This generally makes for great atmosphere. There are always folks coming in and out. Even still, I can tell that most are regulars, because they know what to order and are not overly confused by this somewhat American style cafe. Actually it is owned by an Australian. Hence the name. Don't sing the song or I will get it stuck in my head.

There is a good amount of patio seating, with the tables in the middle of a square, and a good distance from the street. The inside has a fresh modern yet cozy feel to it with white walls and accents of blue. There are many comfy arm chairs as well as a couple of tables, but overall the inside is pretty small, and I get the impression that the baristas would like more room. 

Their espresso is consistent when mixed with milk, but can often be a bit bitter on its own. That being said, I thoroughly enjoy their macchiatos. Often though they use less foam than I would like, they are made to the perfect temperature with the correct ratio of milk to espresso. Bonus points for latte art in a macchiato!

I prefer to drink drip coffee in the mornings, so maybe that is why I always find myself here in the mornings. Their drip coffee is really outstanding. I prefer their Brazilian single origin (which they buy from a French roaster, Cafe Lomi). It has the fruity light notes I am looking for, while maintaining its whole mouth feel and rooted with a dark cherry taste. Usually I order it brewed via AeroPress. I have tried ordering off their menu of "brew styles", but I think they are available only when certain baristas are working. Also, the AeroPress only brews an 8oz cup, expensive for 4 Euros.  

Everytime I come here, I chat up the Baristas in English or French, depending on whether I am feeling ambitious that day. They can all be very friendly, some more than others. In general, I get the sense that they enjoy working there. It does seem as if there are alot of them for the small space, but they are always kept busy with the growing demand of customers. My only complaint is that I once got short changed and did not realize it until I was on the metro. 

I included the food category in my criteria for all critiques at the insistence of a friend, who is in love with Kooka Boora's food. She even found an article highlighting their pastry chef in the New York Times. Even though it is extremely expensive, I find myself always trying something new. I have had their cookies, which are crunchy on the edges and fall apart when you try to pick them up. Their sandwiches are non-traditional, yet maintain the French style, usually offering a host of delicious ingredients like sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese, and spinach leaves. Their quiche is cheesy delicious, although I do wish the crust were a bit easier to cut through.

Kooka Boora is one of my favorite cafes in Paris, and I highly recommend it to any traveler or local wanting great coffee. It will be hard not to compare every cafe in Paris to this one.

photos courtesy of Dave Bloom       

Ensuite

CAFES TO BE REVIEWED

La Torrefaction - 

Cafeotheque - 52 Rue de l'Hôtel de ville 75004

Le Bal Cafe - 6 Impasse de la Défense, 75018

Please leave suggestions for cafes!

I am not a critic, I just like good coffee

Before I arrived in Paris, I had grand ideas of French coffee. I was certain that it had to be better than American style, because I distinctly remember Europeans harassing me for American "brown water" coffee. The fallacy of this logic, however, is that it was Italians poking fun of American coffee, not the French. 

I remember the look on my host-mother's face this summer when I handed her a bag of my favorite Blue Bottle coffee, Three Africans. My heart broke first when she hardly looked at it,  then again when she did not want to hear my broken French enough to discuss it, and it broke completely when I realized that after a week of breakfasts with instant coffee, my cherished blend of arabica, combining the best quality from one of the regions of Ethiopia where coffee is rumored to originate from, had been thrown out.

It was then that I realized the French are lost when it comes to coffee. Watery espresso, instant coffee, and giant cafe vending machines rule the roost here. Fortunately, in Paris there are cafes that serve both balanced smooth espresso and bright flavorful drip coffee. They are difficult to find, but they are there. I frequent some a bit too often, even if it means traversing the city. I am not a critic, I just like good coffee, and I bet there are other Parisians that do too.

My criteria for judgement is based on five measures:                    
1) Atmosphere, 2) Espresso 3) Drip Coffee 4) Barista Service 5) Food. Also, because these things can change, sometimes you get good coffee, sometimes not, I will be reviewing cafes after a minimum of three visits. 

1) Atmosphere:

The French love their cafes, and they love them for the atmosphere. The best thing about a French cafe is that you can sit for hours, watch the people, admire the architecture, read a book, and no one will bother you. You over hear lively conversation, are subject to second-hand smoke, and have time to consider the meaning of life. I could not review cafes in Paris without holding them to French standards.

2) Espresso

I look for a thick crema, a strong full mouth flavor upfront, not too bitter, and then a smooth finish. My favorite flavor profiles include fruity notes without being too acidic.  Type of beans, roast, freshness, grind, tamp, water fliter, temperature, pressure, length of the shot, and amount of time it sits before being consumed are just a few of the many variables that go into delicious espresso. But if it tastes good, then it tastes good. In coffee, the ends justify the means.

3) Drip Coffee

Definitely a rarity in France. It is also a controversial topic among Europeans, because they think that espresso is the only real type of coffee. However, if they were to try good drip coffee, I am sure I could change their minds. This is one area where the Anglo-phones have dominated the scene. With so many different ways of brewing drip coffee: Pour over, Syphon, Chemex, AeroPress, V60, and regular brew to name a few; there are endless varieties of delicious drip coffee. If the French refuse to try it and refuse to serve it, then they are missing out on a great part of the coffee experience.

4) Barista Service

Unfortunately the French have a reputation for bad service. And it is impossible to deny that I have had some extremely bad service since I have been here. However, it is also true that I have had remarkable service as well. It is certainly something I will be looking for as a regular customer. Good baristas mean good coffee. Period.

5) Food

I am not a food critic, I am barely even a coffee critic, but I know good food when I see it. Also, I would like to have affordable and delicious food at any cafe in which I will spend extended amounts of time.

Bonus points will be given for latte art. Especially good latte art.

If you get the chance to check out these cafes, or if you know of others I should try, let me know!

photos courtesy of Dave Bloom